Some of you know that i am a nut when it comes to surfing or anything related. So i was super stoked when there was an app on the iphone for surf reports. It was free and i quickly downloaded it and was totally engrossed for hours checking out spots and thinking how beautiful it must be there or how sad that it is flat today.
Now some of you may not know that for my 30th bday i given a trip by Dad to go to Hawaii with two friends. I call this my midlife crisis year cause i never dreamed my life would look like it did at the age of 30, i mean really single and just met someone who could possilby be my one and only yet i was so tattered from past relationships i was freaking out too much to breath...so Hawaii is what the doctor ordered.
One of the great things about having a december bday is that Pipeline Masters goes on in Dec. So my two friends and i got on standby and went to the surf haven. I got to see all the famous names like Occy, Kelly, Pat, Curren, and Rob and some of my faves like Dorian and CJ Hobgood. We even 'crashed' a party where they all were and go to hear Donovan play! It was a great 2 days!
I say all this to help explain why i check surf reports daily even though i live in the middle of tx! its very sad but true.... I used to think God would allow me to do ministry in a surf shop some where around the world, but not any more, and i am good with it...i just think my soul sometimes longs to just sit on the sand, watch the waves, and breath in all the smells. So instead i check the reports and think man Pipe is flat...thats sad. OR Pipe is pumping today...double over head! I say these things in my head cause no else knows what i mean, i show andrew the picture of the wave hight and he is a great love and says wow that is huge or i guess everyday isn't paradise really huh? and i close the app and look out at the flat land scape i am surrounded by and thank Dad for the beautiful sunsets that i get to see!
Cool photog with GREAT hair...:)
Sadie, Alisa and Me on my Bday eating near where Jack Johnson lives!! :)
Pipeline Masters Judging and hang out spot.
I am reminscking about it all and wish i could go back!!! :)